
Black and white stretch cotton sateen floral printed skirt made by Pamela.
Black and white stretch cotton sateen floral printed skirt made by Pamela.
Blue cotton drill mini skirt with scalloped front opening made by Lucinda for her Mum.
Typewriter print quilting cotton A-line skirt with neon rickrack and elasticated double belt, made by Bess who has a fondness for neon rickrack.
Quilting cotton isn’t always the best choice for dressmaking, but A-line skirts work well (and the prints are cool)
Bess doing I-don’t-know-quite-what wearing her Amy Butler Chinese lantern skirt (as seen on the Great British Sewing Bee), or onion skirt as her husband calls it. The pattern is a Donna Karan for Vogue but has been (infuriatingly) discontinued. It’s great; the side seams are twisted so at the hips the back wraps around to the front and at the hem the front wraps around the back. The yoke is cut in one piece which made fitting a bit of a nightmare (no side seams to take in), but for a pattern like this you get a great effect on the back where the grain is taken off to near bias. Bess piped the side seams to make them a feature and gave the skirt an extra-deep hem so the skirt had a bit of weight to it; you should be careful what you make out of these ‘quilting cottons’ as they don’t drape terribly well, but they are an excellent choice for garments such as this.
Bess on top of the world wearing linen jersey camisole and red and white spotty linen skirt. The camisole pattern was made by drawing round an existing vest. The front and the back are the same which makes it super easy to construct (no markings!), Soft elastic binding was used for the straps, Bess made a few of these for her holiday and got the making time down to 20 minutes. The skirt was made a few years ago (fabric long since sold out 🙁 ), due to the linen being so fine Bess lined it with white ‘Riviera’ lawn. Double belt loops were attached to hold a decorative saddle stitch grosgrain belt. She’s had a lot of use out of this skirt.
You can find lots of Linens HERE
Jane wearing her neat little check skirt with kick pleat split in the back. You can’t tell by this photo but those checks match PERFECTLY (as if Jane would not match her checks). Turned on the Venezia lining with velvet piping on the waist
Fabrics and Notions:
Magenta and camel check wool worsted #3489
Shot magenta Venezia lining
Magenta velvet piping
Pattern: McCall’s M3830
Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.
Fabrics and Notions:
Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons
Bluebell wool crepe
Invisible zip
Velvet ready made piping
Venezia lining
3mm ribbons for trimming hem
Julie wearing her A-Line wool lined skirt with Velvet ribbon trim around the hem.
Fabrics and Notions:
Grey wool mix flannel
Velvet ribbon trim
Venezia Lining
Invisible Zip
Pattern: New Look 6345 (adapted)
Bess wearing her cloud printed cotton elastane jersey mini skirt, with cobalt blue double jersey raglan sleeve top. Both the top and the skirt took less than half an hour to make (each) – more time was spent waiting for the iron to heat up, or choosing which side to do the top (the reverse of that fabric is a lovely teal colour.
Bess loves things that take less than half an hour to make 🙂
Fabrics and Notions:
Cotton Elastane cloud printed jersey #2846.
Cobalt Blue/Teal double sided jersey #3193. See more jersey here
Elastic
Patterns:
Skirt: DKNY for Vogue (adapted from long skirt, pattern now discontinued)
Top: Marcy Tilton for Vogue. #8636 (collar, cuffs and hem adapted from pattern)
Rachel wearing stretch cotton jacket with embossed squares, eyelet tape and various trims, and elephant printed floppy viscose panelled skirt.
Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Black embossed stretch cotton
Black hatch print Linen (border/collar)
Velvet ribbon
Suedette eyelet tape
Haematite beads
Machine embroidery
Pattern: Marcy Tilton (discontinued)
Skirt:
Elephant print viscose
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing
Invisible zip
White spot cotton lawn top with printed red varuna wool skirt made by Lucinda. (The twins were made by her sister)
Fabrics and Notions:
Top:
White semi-sheer spot cotton lawn
Skirt:
Red printed varuna wool
Red venezia lining
Invisible zip
Red fold-over petersham binding
Bess posing in her turquoise Italian Designer knit mini skirt and top.
Fabrics and Notions:
Italian Designer chevron knit
Elastic
Stay tape
Italian Designer knits are super-stretchy and have a tendency to ‘grow’, as a guide, you are likely to be making up in a couple of sizes smaller than you usually are.
A rare photo of Jane taken in London wearing her mixed fibre tweed jacket quilted in the traditional cardigan jacket manner with added chain weight and fringe trimmings. Turquoise and chartreuse wool tweed skirt with kick pleat and pink lining (made by Bess).
Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Mixed fibre cardigan jacket type tweed
Printed silk satin lining
Silk organza (just the selvedge, used for staying the edges and hem)
Acrylic fringe trim
Chain
Double cover buttons
Skirt:
Turquoise and chartreuse big check wool tweed
Pink Venezia lining
Pink velvet piping
Invisible zip
Bess wearing reversible coat made years and years ago using grosgrain polkadot and green Laurent Garigue worsted wool.
Also wearing a long a-line skirt using a Donna Karan Vogue pattern.
Fabrics and Notions:
Coat:
Polka dot printed grosgrain viscose and cotton
Laurent Garigue green worsted wool
Cover buttons (wired together so as to be double sided)
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Skirt:
Red zero print stretch cotton drill
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Turquoise satin piping
Invisible zip
Turquoise narrow petersham (belt loops)
Black 25mm cotton petersham (tie)
Ditsy floral printed needlecord skirt with ribbon trim made by Lucinda for her sister-in-law
Fabrics and Notions:
Ditsy floral printed needlecord
Pink ribbon trim
Invisible zip
Pam wearing her printed linen and ramie a-line skirt
Fabrics and Notions:
John Kaldor Printed Linen/Ramie
Invisible zip
Venezia lining
Piping and bias binding
Megan wears chartreuse cotton drill A-line skirt with a spiral zip inserted, worn with a grey wool mesh hoody top with ears, designed by Bess
Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Charteuse cotton drill
White continuouse zipping
Viscose acetate spot print lining (Inside zip)
Black venezia lining
Invisible zip
Bias binding
Black fold-over grosgrain binding
Top:
Wool stretch mesh
Stretch semi-sheer turquoise lycra binding
Patterns: Bess’s own
Modelled below by Bronte showing what happens when you undo the zip
Megan (spinning) and Bronte (triptych) modelling angora and wool mix jumper with red viscose jersey circle insert and monster gloves, and charcoal grey dogtooth worsted wool with zipped panels revealing printed silk habotai inserts.
Fabrics and Notions:
Jumper:
Wool and angora stripe rib jersey
Red viscose and elastane jersey (circle insert, covered buttons and glove linings)
Wool wadding (Inside circle insert)
Covered buttons
Bias binding cut from jersey
Stay tape
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Skirt:
Charcoal 80% Wool 20% Poly dogtooth check brushed worsted wool
Digitally printed silk habotai
Red continuous zipping
Black grosgrain fold-over binding
Invisible zip
Backing button
Bias binding
Iron-on stabilising tape
Clair wearing heavy jersey sailor top and pleated wool and silk skirt.
Fabrics and notions:
Heavy wool jersey
White ribbon
Stay tape
Black silk/wool worsted (permanently pleated)
Medium weight knitted interfacing
Venezia lining
Gingham ribbon
Invisible zip
Jacoba in her mixed fibre tweed skirt and mohair and wool coat.
Fabrics and Notions:
Suit: Mixed fibres tweed
Venezia lining
Invisible zip
Pattern: Butterick 4461
Coat: Wool mohair coating
Viscose satin lining
buttons
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Becky modelling Lucinda’s quilted cotton hooded jacket with laser cut leaf embellishments, and worsted wool shaped yoke with jersey draped skirt (made using the Julian Roberts sub-cutting method)
Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Marble print viscose and elastane jersey
Chocolate brown English worsted wool
Red viscose and elastane jersey
Invisible zip
Jacket:
Dyed calico
Laser cut leaves from ultrasuade, jersey and calico
Blue viscose (lining)
Wadding
Cotton bias binding
T-shirt:
Viscose elastane jersey
Jacoba wearing big flower print lined cotton skirt.
Fabrics and Notions:
Flower print cotton #1580
Cotton lawn lining
Invisible zip
Bias binding
Jacoba wearing her John Kaldor tulip printed stretch cotton sateen skirt.
Fabrics and Notions:
John Kaldor tulip print stretch cotton sateen
Invisible zip
Medium weight iron-on knitted interfacing
Jacoba wearing super-slinky and versatile red viscose brocade panelled skirt.
Fabrics and Notions:
Red viscose brocade
Invisible zip
Red Venezia lining
Lightweight iron-on knitted interfacing
Jacoba wearing floral printed linen skirt with frill detailing.
Judith wearing wool mix double jersey skirt with a clever flower detail
Fabrics and Notions:
Wool mix double jersey
Knitted medium weight interfacing
Invisible zip
Lulu wearing green and pink spot print cotton skirt and pink LG cotton waffle wrap top. (Made by Jane)
Fabrics and Notions:
Pink and green printed spot cotton
Pink waffle cardigan jacket type Cotton
Viscose interfacing
Invisible zip
Tutu: model’s own
Clair in her grey and chartreuse check tweed frill skirt
Fabrics and Notions:
Grey line check tweed
Venezia lining
Velvet piping
Pattern: Simplicity 3881
Clair wearing her green linen skirt embellished with lots of shell buttons and a spotty frill
Fabrics and Notions:
Green heavy linen
Kaffe Fassett Green Spot print cotton
Approx 45 shell buttons
Fine piping cord and self made bias binding
Embellishing a plain cloth with buttons or beads can be a really effective way of dressing up a fabric, which would otherwise cost (if bought ready embellished) a small fortune. Pay attention to aesthetics and practicality when choosing the placement, you may wish to concentrate the beads in one area, thinning out elsewhere, or only embellish the front.
Jane and Clair in matching ‘corporate colours’ dress and skirt using Kaffe Fassett printed Cotton
Fabrics and Notions: (Jane)
Kaffe Fassett printed cotton
Piping and self made bias binding
Cotton lawn (lining)
Invisible zip
Pattern: Simplicity 3881
Fabrics and Notions: (Clair)
Kaffe Fassett printed cotton
Venezia lining
Invisible zip
Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing
Pattern: Vintage Vogue
Jane wearing her Kaffe Fassett printed cotton frilled knee length skirt (Made by Clair).
Fabrics and Notions:
Kaffe Fassett printed quilting weight cotton
Velvet piping (for waist stabilising)
Venezia and cotton lawn (for the frill) lining
Pattern: Simplicity 3881
Jane wearing fine black wool worsted skirt with spotty satin lining.
Fabric and notions:
Black Worsted wool
Spotty Polyester Satin (Frill lining) and Black Venezia (lining)
Medium weight knitted Iron on interfacing
Piping and piping cord
Invisible zip
Pattern: Simplicity 3881
Clair wears black spotty tulle skirt
Fabric and Notions:
Nylon flock spotted tulle
Black fashion net
Black Venezia lining
Wide satin ribbon
Invisible zip
Bias Binding
Pattern: Custom made (variation of bought Karen Millen skirt)
Jane wearing Purple cotton needlecord frill skirt.
Fabric and Notions:
Cotton Needlecord
Venezia and cotton lawn (for frill) Lining
Medium weight iron-on knitted interfacing
Piping and bias binding
Invisible zip
Pattern: Simplicity 3881
Jane wearing wool melton skirt with frill hem. (Made by Clair)
Fabric and Notions:
Wool Melton coating
Shot Taffeta Frill lining, Venezia Lining
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Piping with bias binding
Invisible zip
Pattern: Simplicity 3881
Wool melton is traditionally used for coats and heavy jackets, but can be used on other garments when the structural characteristics of a coating wool is required. (It’s a good idea to use co-ordinating lighter fabrics to make up facings, if required)
Jane with her superb Austrian border-embroidered long skirt with split.
Fabric and Notions:
Border-embroidered Wool Flannel
Silk Habotai Lining
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Invisible zip
Pattern: McCall’s 3341