Bess posing in her turquoise Italian Designer knit mini skirt and top.
Fabrics and Notions: Italian Designer chevron knit
Elastic
Stay tape
Italian Designer knits are super-stretchy and have a tendency to ‘grow’, as a guide, you are likely to be making up in a couple of sizes smaller than you usually are.
A rare photo of Jane taken in London wearing her mixed fibre tweed jacket quilted in the traditional cardigan jacket manner with added chain weight and fringe trimmings. Turquoise and chartreuse wool tweed skirt with kick pleat and pink lining (made by Bess).
Fabrics and Notions: Jacket:
Mixed fibre cardigan jacket type tweed
Printed silk satin lining
Silk organza (just the selvedge, used for staying the edges and hem)
Acrylic fringe trim
Chain
Double cover buttons
Skirt:
Turquoise and chartreuse big check wool tweed
Pink Venezia lining
Pink velvet piping
Invisible zip
Bess wearing reversible coat made years and years ago using grosgrain polkadot and green Laurent Garigue worsted wool.
Also wearing a long a-line skirt using a Donna Karan Vogue pattern.
Fabrics and Notions: Coat:
Polka dot printed grosgrain viscose and cotton
Laurent Garigue green worsted wool
Cover buttons (wired together so as to be double sided)
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Skirt:
Red zero print stretch cotton drill
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Turquoise satin piping
Invisible zip
Turquoise narrow petersham (belt loops)
Black 25mm cotton petersham (tie)
Jessie wearing her red viscose and elastane polka dot t-shirt made by Bess, and Bess wearing her wool and silk tweed pinafore dress with Birdy pockets and circle jersey inserts.
(They were trying to move faster than the camera flash- clearly not fast enough)
Fabrics and Notions: Jessie wears:
Red polka dot printed viscose elastane jersey
Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing
Stay tape
Reinforced iron-on stay tape
Bess wears:
Wool and silk tweed pinafore dress
Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey (pockets and inserts)
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing
Dress made for Bess’s graduation made out of charcoal silk and wool lightweight English tweed with charcoal jersey back and red spotty jersey circle inserts and pockets.
Miaow at a festival wearing her whit rabbit costume (ears in hands) made with organic cotton, pale pink tulle, pink viscose satin and microfleece (ears)
Maddison modeling Bess’s proofed linen coat (quilted with wool wadding) with wiggly eye epaulettes. Zipping in the panels and sleeves undo to reveal white proofed linen pleats.
Fabric and Notions: Chartreuse proofed linen
White proofed linen
Wool wadding
Black continuous zipping
wiggly eye buttons
Black cotton grosgrain
Spot printed viscose acetate lining
Cover buttons
Pocket zips
Eyelets (umbrella pocket)
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Kyra modelling the wool tweed zippy dress remake designed by Bess
Fabrics and Notions: Laurent Garigue double sided wool tweed in charcoal and ivory
Big spot poly satin
Red continuous zipping with extra pullers
Black fold-over grosgrain binding
Self made wide bias binding
Iron-on reinforced stay tape
Iron-on stay tape
Kyra modelling the felted jersey cardigan designed by Bess with integral glove puppets.
Fabrics and Notions: Turquoise wool and polyamide felted jersey
Red viscose elastane jersey (binding and waist yoke lining)
Cover buttons
Wool wadding (collar interlining)
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Megan (spinning) and Bronte (triptych) modelling angora and wool mix jumper with red viscose jersey circle insert and monster gloves, and charcoal grey dogtooth worsted wool with zipped panels revealing printed silk habotai inserts.
Fabrics and Notions: Jumper:
Wool and angora stripe rib jersey
Red viscose and elastane jersey (circle insert, covered buttons and glove linings)
Wool wadding (Inside circle insert)
Covered buttons
Bias binding cut from jersey
Stay tape
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Maddison modelling reversible black and white polka dot dress (red on reverse) that Bess designed for her final degree collection.
Fabrics and Notions: Red viscose elastane jersey
Black and white polka dot print viscose elastane jersey
Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing
Stay tape
Fabrics and Notions: Cotton and mixed fibres Italian Designer chevron knit
Lycra binding
Bias binding
Stay tape
The selvedge on these knits are often usable as an edging, they may need a bit of tidying up as there is often threads that come loose, but look good when the time is spent.
Bess wearing her posh white grosgrain and sequinned zippy dress, with red cotton sateen inserts.
Bess has a bit of an obsession with zips
Fabrics and Notions: White cotton and acetate grosgrain
Black sequinned jersey
Red cotton and poly stretch sateen
Red continuous zipping
Red piping
Red bias binding (cut from sateen)
Iron-on reinforced stabilising tape
Iron on stabilising tape
Black fold-over grosgrain binding (hem)
Kitcat’s green gingham school dress with heart pocket detailing and daisy trim made by Jane, with matching daisy trimmed shorts. (no more showing your knickers to the boys, young lady)
Clair wearing heavy jersey sailor top and pleated wool and silk skirt.
Fabrics and notions: Heavy wool jersey
White ribbon
Stay tape
Black silk/wool worsted (permanently pleated)
Medium weight knitted interfacing
Venezia lining
Gingham ribbon
Invisible zip
Bess in her prototype tweed dress she made for her final collection with six zips opening up the panels (the zips have extra pullers so can be undone in a multitude of ways for different silhouettes).
Fabrics and Notions: Laurent Garigue double sided wool tweed in charcoal and ivory
Big spot poly satin
Black continuous zipping with extra pullers
Red grosgrain ribbon
Black fold-over grosgrain binding
Self made wide bias binding
Iron-on reinforced stay tape
Iron-on stay tape
Pattern: Bess’s own (but is a pretty basic panelled shift)
Bess made sleeves and lined her sequin dress in cotton jersey because she is fairly intolerant when it comes to suffering for fashion (and sequins are hot and scratchy).
This dress would have taken much less than an hour had she not taken the time to cut away the sequins along the seams (which makes sewing easier, reduces the risk of a sequin jabbing her in the thigh, and the seams lie nice and flat. It was unnecessary to sew any back on.
Due to the tulle backing the sequins are sewn on to no hemming was required (result!).
Becky modelling Lucinda’s quilted cotton hooded jacket with laser cut leaf embellishments, and worsted wool shaped yoke with jersey draped skirt (made using the Julian Roberts sub-cutting method)
Fabrics and Notions: Skirt:
Marble print viscose and elastane jersey
Chocolate brown English worsted wool
Red viscose and elastane jersey
Invisible zip
Jacket:
Dyed calico
Laser cut leaves from ultrasuade, jersey and calico
Blue viscose (lining)
Wadding
Cotton bias binding
Bess made this hoody with ears for her father (modelled here by her husband, Rob) out of white cotton sweat shirting which she dyed blue with Dylon machine dye.
Fabrics and Notions: White cotton sweatshirting
Navy Dylon dye
Stay tape
Wool wadding (for ears)
Bess believed that EVERYONE should have a hoody with ears in the Christmas of 2010
Allow 10% shrinkage for all your washable natural fibres (including viscose). Wash before making up in the same manner as you would with subsequent washes (including drying methods).
Jerseys and fabrics liable to mis-shape should be dried flat, or in a cool tumble dryer.
Most fabrics should be pressed before cutting.
If in doubt about care instructions please CONTACT US
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